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Ranger’s House, Greenwich

The Ranger’s House in Greenwich has achieved recent celebrity with its role in hit Netflix drama Bridgerton, where the building’s exterior plays the part of ‘Bridgerton House’, home of the fictional Bridgerton family, transported to a CGI version of Grosvenor Square in central London, in 1813. In reality this 18th-century mansion is located on a green hill outside Greenwich in south-east London, and houses a small and quirky art collection.

Greenwich is one of the best destinations for a varied London day out, but of the crowds who visit the big attractions near the Thames, few head up the hill to this more hidden treasure. Built to take advantage of the green surroundings and impressive views, the brick Ranger’s House was first home to a naval captain, and later to Lord Chesterfield before becoming the residence of the Ranger of Greenwich Park – an honorary position awarded by the monarch. The first Ranger to live in this building was Princess Sophia Matilda, a niece of George III. The previous residence, standing alongside, was demolished but had been home to Queen Caroline – read on for how to see a surprising relic of this dwelling.

Nowadays the Ranger’s House is in the hands of English Heritage and houses a long-term loan: a collection of art assembled by the diamond magnate and collector Sir Julius Wernher (1850-1912). The Wernhers had no connection to this building, but the mansion’s interior has been arranged to evoke the grand rooms of their homes, Bath House, Piccadilly and Luton Hoo in Bedfordshire. There are some fine artworks, and some unusual curiosities to admire; Wernher said his passion was for the ‘splendidly ugly’. The Ranger’s House is worth the uphill walk from central Greenwich to visit, can be combined with a roam through the fabulous parkland and is free to English Heritage members, so it’s a great place to visit for many reasons, not least if you are on a budget staycation.

I visited while Covid precautionary measures were in place; booking ahead the evening before (plenty of slots available). Detailed catalogues for each room had been removed for hygiene reasons, replaced by a QR code to access a webpage with room information and highlighted objects. Guides were on hand to help identify the many fascinating exhibits not included in the online companion. Photography isn’t allowed, though guidebooks and free postcards were available from the small shop (along with fudge, fruit wine and other treats).

With the collection encompassing artworks from tiny jewels to marble sculptures, there is a lot of variety to take in, but the collection is small enough to be manageable and enjoyable, rather than overwhelming.

Paintings

One of the collection’s most celebrated pieces is a painting from the workshop of Botticelli, a version of the elegant Madonna of the Pomegranate, but my favourites were two other Italian Renaissance paintings, unlabelled but identified for me by the friendly guides: Rest on the Flight into Egypt by Filippino Lippi, with its lovely background details, and a Madonna with Saints, listed as by a follower of Il Francia. I haven’t managed to find out much about the latter painting, though in the past it appears to have been attributed to Francesco Francia himself. (I first discovered the works of this artist, real name Francesco Raibolini, c.1447-1517, in the Pinacoteca Nazionale in Bologna, where his paintings and the faces in them really stood out for me). I regret not being able to photograph or find a good reproduction of this painting; in which I particularly admired one of the saints – I think identifiable as St Nicholas.

Memento Mori

One of Sir Julius’s special interests was evidently the memento mori. There are a number of these reminders of death and mortality on display here, including a tiny intricately-carved boxwood coffin which can be opened to reveal panels depicting the Last Judgement, a decomposing corpse and a skeleton. Another exquisitely crafted memento mori is a two-sided ivory pendant: one one side, a well-dressed woman, on the other side a rotting skull covered with scavenging creepy-crawlies, and the words ECCE FINE (Here is the End) on the forehead.

Jewels, ceramics and more

Another of my highlights of the Ranger’s House Wernher Collection was the Jewellery Vault, filled with exquisite rings, cameos and seals, mostly Renaissance but also featuring the oldest object in the museum, a Greek Hellenistic gold earring depicting Nike, her wings aloft, dated to the 2nd Century BC.

The collection of ceramics is also very fine, including some handsome Italian Renaissance maiolica, and a magnificent dish from France with a moulded eel slithering across its surface.

Grand reception rooms on the lower floor are decorated in keeping with the homes of the Wernhers where they were once displayed. Paintings include fine portraits by Joshua Reynolds.

The walls of the elegant Long Gallery are hung with historic tapestries and the room’s focal point is the seductive (or sickly-sweet, depending on your tastes) 19th-century marble sculpture titled The Love of Angels, by Giulio Bergonzoli.

Outside the Ranger’s House: rose garden and ruins

The Ranger’s House now has a rather downbeat vista looking over lawns and a main road. If you’re a Bridgerton fan, of course, you will want to take the obligatory selfies at the front of the house. But afterwards, head through a small gateway in the garden at the side of the building, and you’ll find yourself in a far more romantic environment, the beautiful rose garden of Greenwich Park. When I visited, some of the beds were filled with wild flowers and between these colourful displays, alive with insects, and the luxuriant blooming roses, the garden was a wonderful setting to sit and admire the mansion, think about the art, or just plan your next move. Greenwich Park, one of London’s Royal Parks, is a remarkable, beautiful place to explore, and I’ll write about its riches another time.

Before you head away from the Ranger’s House, though, just walk for a few yards away from the rose garden along the park’s inner perimeter to the south (to your left as you look at the rear of the house). Here, by a hedge and against a wall, is a surviving feature from Montague (or Montagu) House, once home to Princess Caroline, later Queen Caroline, estranged wife of the future George IV. Princess Caroline’s Bath is exactly what it says it is: a sunken tiled bath, all that is left of the building demolished in 1815.

How to get to the Ranger’s House in Greenwich

From Greenwich’s ‘main attractions’ near the Thames and the Cutty Sark DLR station, Ranger’s House is a 10-15-minute walk uphill through the park, a very pleasant, green and scenic stroll. It’s located on the park’s western boundary (head towards the right-hand perimeter as you head up the slopes).

The entrance to the house faces away from the park, on a lane called Chesterfield Walk. But from the rose garden within the park you can reach the entrance by following English Heritage signs through the small gateway in the garden wall. Alternatively, there is a gateway from the park out towards Chesterfield Walk a little way north of the house, called Croom’s Hill Gate, a route which passes some other handsome buildings. A printable map of the park is available on the Royal Parks website (see below), and this is a useful tool to take to help make the most of your visit.

I actually walked to Greenwich from central London, which is entirely do-able – allow 2.5 – 3 hours from the City of London, and enjoy a scenic hike along the Thames, or cut some time off with shortcuts by road.

If you’d rather not walk, and would like to avoid the uphill stretch from central Greenwich, there are limited parking spaces at the house (check the English Heritage website), and it is on bus route 53, which passes Deptford Bridge station (DLR) as well as the 386, which passes Greenwich station and the National Maritime Museum.

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London

London tourist attractions

Samuel Johnson famously wrote “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford,” but to the visitor this huge city can seem a daunting grey jungle. Where should they begin?

London is not a city whose charms are all on show, presented in a tidy package to the tourist. Amid the imposing, noisy, confusing bustle, it is no wonder that many opt for an easy tourist trail of expensive attractions. Tussaud’s, the London Dungeon, the London Eye, the Tower of London are all musts for many visitors. But if you are on a budget, or if you wish to see some of London’s other faces, here are some suggestions:

London Buses

For travelling around London, the tube is quick – study the maps closely as there are more than ten lines. But I’d recommend taking the bus wherever possible. It’s a very cheap option, and there’s nothing like the view of London you get from the upper deck of a traditional red double-decker bus.

For sightseeing, the number 38 is an excellent route. Departing from Victoria Station, it passes Buckingham Palace gardens (from the top deck you can see over the high wall to the royal lawns and tennis courts), heads along Piccadilly, across Piccadilly Circus and cuts across Soho along Shaftesbury Avenue, lined with theatres. Then it turns left up Charing Cross Road, famous for its secondhand bookshops. A glance to the left will show you hectic Oxford Street, before the bus takes a right towards Holborn. Further along the route you pass Sadlers Wells Theatre and classy Islington, where you can eat, drink and entertain yourselves (unless you want a glimpse of London’s more deprived areas, in which case you should stay on the bus until its final destination, the debt-ridden borough of Hackney).

Museum of London

This excellent free museum is in the strange Barbican complex, built by architects dreaming of an urban renaissance. Like a city in a sci-fi novel, this area is composed of high walkways, residential tower blocks and peaceful lakes, fountains and gardens. There is also a theatre, where the Royal Shakespeare company perform in the winter, a concert hall and some good restaurants and cafes to suit all budgets. The museum itself provides a marvellous overview of London, from prehistory to the present day, with fascinating temporary exhibitions as well as a good permanent collection. Here you can walk along a recreated Victorian Street, or admire marble sculptures from a Roman Temple of Mithras.

London Markets

London has a large variety of markets, and a trip to one of these is a real chance to see the city at its vibrant, living best. Most-visited is probably the famous (and touristy) market and piazza of Covent Garden, but there are many more in the centre, or a short tube ride away. Portobello Road Market in expensive Notting Hill has a wide range of stalls selling antiques, vintage clothes, records and much more, and offers good opportunities to view the smart set.

Early on a Sunday morning, the highlight is Columbia Road flower market in East London (Bethnal Green). The flower stalls provide a welcome splash of brightness in the heart of the city, and the cockney stallholders shouting incomprehensible descriptions of their wares supply a different kind of colour. Meanwhile a mixture of trendy young things and East Enders wander up and down the narrow road, or break for refreshments in the pub or a cafe.

After the flower market, experience more of the unique mixture of cultures composing the area by a visit to Brick Lane and Spitalfields Market. On a standard Sunday along crowded Brick Lane you could view art installations in warehouse space, eat vegetarian or ethnic food at a stall, hear a ragtime street pianist, pick up some wonderful cheap fabric from a sari shop or a bargain antique piece of furniture (if you have room in your suitcase).

A bus ride away in North London is the crowded alternative commercial heaven, Camden Market. Hugely popular (with pickpockets too – watch your wallet), this is a good place to buy unusual gifts (fake black roses from a Gothic Emporium?) and clubbing or vintage gear.

The City of London

The City is the oldest part of London, and nowadays is the financial heart of the UK. Packed with rushing commuters from Monday to Friday, the area is eerily deserted at the weekend. These ancient winding streets contain many gems. Historic squares and buildings stand cheek by jowl with the most gleaming of modern architecture. Highlights include the medieval Guildhall and the 202-foot-high Monument, built as a reminder of the Great Fire. St Paul’s is one of the finest sights the City offers, a gigantic testament to the aspirations of past Londoners.

The River Thames & the South Bank

Historically the great tidal river was London’s hub. Nowadays it is sadly underused, but its banks offer a sustantial leisure resource. St Katharine’s Dock, next to Tower Bridge, is an intriguing mixture of historic dock and luxury marina. There are often interesting historic vessels to view, free entertainment, and good pizzas in the picturesque Dickens Inn. It’s a good place from which to watch Tower Bridge open, too. This happens surprisingly often, when high-masted vessels pass up or down the Thames, and you can check when it’s due to take place by calling 020 7378 7700.

Crossing the river and walking westwards along the South Bank you’ll find a pleasant relaxing atmosphere and some nice restaurants and pubs with river views. There are often small festivals or outdoor entertainments, some tourist attractions, and the soon-to-be redeveloped South Bank Centre, a major cultural complex. Underneath Waterloo Bridge you’ll find second hand book stalls, and the intellectual haven of the National Film Theatre. Don’t be put off by the serious-looking young men; the Film Cafe (with outdoors tables) is a pleasant place to take a break, and the cakes are fantastic.

The next best thing to the London Eye (and free) is the viewing platform at the Oxo Building, also on the South Bank, close to Blackfriars Bridge. Take the lift to the top floor and don’t be daunted by the restaurant (excellent for a meal with a view), the open air viewing platform above the river is open to the public.

Get to the heart of London in three days with our sightseeing suggestions, and experience the city’s diversity: Three days in London

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London

Three days in London

Experiencing London

For those who want to understand the gigantic, sprawling organism that is London, here are some suggestions, arranged into a busy three-day itinerary. Rather than the big sights besieged by tourists, we’ve concentrated on insiders’ tips – places that will give you a feel for the real city. To travel around the city, see our tips on the Tourist Attractions page, and try to take the bus wherever possible – you’ll see much more.

Friday

If you’re up and about early, take a look at the morning rush hour to get an insight into the workings of the city. Between 7:30 and 9:30, the majority of London’s residents will be crowded onto buses and the tube , making their daily trek in from the residential areas outside Zone 1. Good places to take a look at the commuting phenomen are mainline rail stations, particularly Liverpool Street in the City, London’s financial heartland. But take care not to cause an obstruction: commuters don’t take kindly to delays.

Friday would be a good day to visit some of the big attractions on your personal checklist. This is a good time to acquire a little historical perspective?, by heading to Westminster to see the historical sites where so much of Britain’s history has been decided. You might want to take the time now to visit the Houses of Parliament, have a look at Big Ben, and survey the splendours of Westminster Abbey. This shouldn’t take too long, and you can then head towards Buckingham Palace, and enjoy a picnic in St. James’s Park, along with the office-workers and the ducks.

If you’re seriously interested in London’s history, it’s a good idea to pay a visit to the excellent Museum of London early on in your stay (you’ll need to take the tube or a bus across town). This free museum is in the strange Barbican complex, built by architects dreaming of an urban renaissance. Like a city in a sci-fi novel, this area is composed of high walkways, residential tower blocks and peaceful lakes, fountains and gardens. There is also a theatre, where the Royal Shakespeare company perform in the winter, a concert hall and some good restaurants and cafes to suit all budgets. The museum itself provides a marvellous overview of London, from prehistory to the present day, with fascinating temporary exhibitions as well as a good permanent collection. Here you can walk along a recreated Victorian Street, or admire marble sculptures from a Roman Temple of Mithras.

If you prefer more glamorous attractions, however, stay in the West End, and pay a visit to Buckingham Palace. Or for something more exciting (especially if you have children with you), you could take a boat trip on the Thames.

If you still have energy left, you could take a stroll around the famous market and piazza of Covent Garden, resting at one of the many cafes. Or the really determined could go for a hectic high-street shopping experience along Oxford Street.

For an evening on the tiles, try a trip to a popular and fashionable area such as Islington, Camden (alternative, live music and clubs) or Shoreditch (painfully hip restaurants and trendy bars and clubs).

Saturday

Start the day off with a trip to well-heeled West London, and pay a visit to the famous Portobello Road Market. There’s a wide range of stalls selling antiques, vintage clothes, records and much more, but a large part of the appeal is the atmosphere and the setting among the elegant – and wildly expensive – town houses of Notting Hill.

Busy shopping areas can be hellish on a Saturday, so I’d recommend staying well away from Oxford Street. Why not get away from the crowds by visiting a museum or watching a matinee performance at one of London’s many theatres?

London offers world-class museums and attractions to suit all interests, and most of them are free. High on the list of priorities is the British Museum, which contains an awe-inspiring array of treasures from around the world, including the famous Elgin Marbles. Whatever your political take on this, the exhibitions are well-presented and definitely worth seeing. Plus, the main displays are free and the museum has a good cafe.

If you prefer to sit in a plush seat and be entertained, London is the place to do it. Cultural events are one of the city’s prime attractions, and a look at the listings (buy Time Out magazine) will present you with a wide selection of plays, musicals, ballets and operas. Try to get a ticket in advance if you can, to ensure a good seat (most theatres and booking agencies will let you book online), but there are often tickets available on the day. Most theatres have an afternoon performance on Saturdays, and often seats will be cheaper and easier to come by than for evening shows.

The reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Globe, on the South Bank will give you a true insight into London’s play-going past. It’s a great experience, but do check what type of ticket you get, as ‘groundlings’ will have to stand in the open for the whole performance. The performance season runs from May – September (Twelfth Night and A Midsummer Night’s Dream are this years big plays), but the guided tours are available all year round.

On a Saturday evening, the heart of London is the place to be. Head for Soho or Covent Garden, enjoy a restaurant meal and then end the evening at a theatre, bar or nightclub, or simply enjoying the hugely intense buzz that is Soho at night. Packed with drunken young (and older) people on their week’s ‘big night out’, the area is chaotic, but fairly safe. Stay alert, don’ t carry huge amounts of money, and never take one of the unlicensed mini cabs that prowl the streets. Black cabs can be hard to come by, but waiting to hail one of these, or using one of the city’s decent nightbuses, is by far the best option.

Check Time Out to decide your evening’s activity, as London has a wealth of excellent possibilities, but most are geared for specific tastes and you want to make sure you get the most from your night. There are too many diverse nightclubs to recommend one or two, but a glance at Time Out’s listings will help you avoid the expensive tourist traps.

Sunday

For a taste of ‘authentic’ London, get up bright and early and head to Columbia Road flower market in East London (Bethnal Green). The flower stalls provide a welcome splash of brightness in the heart of the city, and the cockney stallholders shouting incomprehensible descriptions of their wares supply a different kind of colour. Meanwhile a mixture of trendy young things and East Enders wander up and down the narrow road, or break for refreshments in the pub or a cafe.

The East End is a traditionally working class area, notorious for crimes by Jack the Ripper and gangs like the Krays. Despite the recent trendiness of ‘mockney’ films feting this violent aspect, the area, while still poor, has recently gained in respectability as fashionable young professionals move in. The areas close to the city, around Brick Lane, Whitechapel, and most of all Shoreditch and Hoxton, have become immensely fashionable with an arty young set, with studio spaces fetching inordinately high prices. After the flower market, experience more of the unique mixture of cultures composing the area by a visit to Brick Lane and Spitalfields Market. On a standard Sunday down crowded Brick Lane you could view art installations in warhouse space, eat vegetarian or ethnic food at a stall, hear a ragtime street pianist, pick up some wonderful cheap fabric from sari shop or a bargain antique piece of furniture (if you have room in your suitcase).

From Spitalfields (where the market is now sadly damaged by development), take a wander through the City of London. Eerily deserted at the weekend, these ancient winding streets contain many gems. Historic squares and buildings stand cheek by jowl with the most gleaming of modern architecture. Highlights include the medieval Guildhall and the 202-foot-high Monument, built as a reminder of the Great Fire. St Paul’s is one of the finest sights the City offers, a gigantic testament to the aspirations of past Londoners.

What many modern Londoners do on their day of rest is take a walk along the river. St Katharine’s Dock, next to Tower Bridge, is an intriguing mixture of historic dock and luxury marina. There are often interesting historic vessels to view, free entertainment, and good pizzas in the picturesque Dickens Inn. It’s a good place from which to watch Tower Bridge open, too. This happens surprisingly often, when high-masted vessels pass up or down the Thames, and you can check when it’s due to take place by calling 020 7378 7700 . The Tower of London is also alongside the bridge, where, if you can afford the entrance fees, you can see the Crown Jewels and take a step closer to the more murky bits of London’s past, viewing Traitors Gate, through which those accused of treason, like Ann Boleyn, passed towards their deaths.

Crossing the river and walking westwards along the South Bank you’ll find a pleasant relaxing atmosphere and some nice restaurants and pubs with river views. There are often small festivals or outdoor entertainments, some tourist attractions, and the soon-to-be redeveloped South Bank Centre, a major cultural complex. Undeneath Waterloo Bridge you’ll find second hand book stalls, and the intellectual haven of the National Film Theatre. Don’t be put off by the serious-looking young men; the Film Cafe (with outdoors tables) is a pleasant place to take a break, and the cakes are fantastic.

Now would be a good time to put all you have learned and experienced into a visual context. Still on the South Bank, between Westminster and Hungerford bridges, you’ll find the famous London Eye. It’s an expensive ride, but offers an unmatchable panorama of the city (and excellent photo-opportunities). If you’re really on a budget, the next best thing is the viewing platform at the Oxo Building, also on the South Bank, close to Blackfriars Bridge. Take the lift to the top floor and don’t be daunted by the restaurant (excellent for a meal with a view), the open air viewing platform above the river is open to the public.

If you’re feeling tired after pounding the city’s streets, a more relaxing afternoon can be enjoyed in the open air in Primrose Hill (Chalk Farm tube). A beautiful and exclusive residential area, Primrose Hill also boasts one of London’s most pleasant vistas. Primrose Hill itself is a grassy park rising above Camden, where you can lie back, enjoy a picnic and admire the city spread out before you, from the tall towers of Canary Wharf to the graceful white London Eye.

If you’re feeling more adventurous, the crowded alternative commercial heaven that is Camden Market is a short walk away. Hugely popular (with pickpockets too – watch your wallet), this is a good place to buy unusual gifts (fake black roses from a Gothic Emporium?) and clubbing or vintage gear.

If all you want to do is chill out, check Time Out’s music listings and head for one of London’s many pubs offering live music. Enjoy the warm atmosphere and a traditional point, and rest comfortably in the awareness that you have discovered many of the diverse pleasures of London. No longer a disorientating jungle, perhaps you’ll begin to appreciate Johnsons’s words and wonder how anyone could tire of such a vibrant city.

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London

Where to stay in London

Since the central area of the city is extremely large, it’s a good idea to think carefully about where to stay in London. You should consider your sightseeing and travelling priorities and the sort of atmosphere you prefer, as well as the obvious budget considerations. Most of the centre is reasonably safe, but note that streets very close to major train stations – particularly King’s Cross – can be seedy at night.

In terms of public transport, London is composed of concentric circles: Zone 1 being the central area, Zone 2 encompassing areas just outside the centre like Camden, and Zones 3-6, although containing several interesting sights, being too far removed for normal tourist accommodation. You will save a lot of time and money on public transport if you stay centrally.

Within the central zone, London’s hotels and B&Bs are not spread evenly, but are concentrated in particular areas. Here is our run-down of some of the principal and most convenient hotel areas, along with links for finding and booking accommodation.

Paddington and Bayswater

The Paddington area, around the station of the same name, is convenient for those travelling to or from Heathrow (using the speedy Heathrow Express) or the west of England (trains depart from Paddington for Bath, Oxford, the Cotswolds, Devon and Cornwall). The area is well-connected for the bus and the tube. Although there is little to see on foot in the immediate vicinity of the station, a few minutes on the bus will bring you to Marble Arch, Oxford Street and the rest of London’s sights. Paddington is a good area for finding affordable accommodation, although hotels here are rarely glamorous.

Bayswater is to the west of Paddington, and is a faded residential area filled with cheaper hotels. Many of these are rather shabby, but your money will go further if you stay around here.

> Paddington hotels
> Bayswater hotels

West End – Soho and Bloomsbury – Holborn and Covent Garden

This area stretching across the centre of London, west to east, is the city’s heart. Hotels tend to be expensive; some of them are in the luxury price bracket. It’s not such a convenient area for travelling outside London, but for seeing the city itself it’s ideal. You should be prepared for noise and crowds.

Mayfair, the area bordered by Regent Street, Oxford Street, Piccadilly and Park Lane, commands the highest rents on the Monopoly board, and is still an expensive and exclusive neighbourhood. The high-street bustle of Oxford Street gives way to elegant streets lined with designer shops, smart hotels and prohibitively-expensive offices. Hyde Park is a huge green space to the west of Park Lane, and many London tourist attractions are a short walk, or a brief bus-ride away.

Soho and Bloomsbury: Soho, the network of narrow roads south of Oxford Street, is a lively night-time area of restaurants, sleazy red-light establishments, drinking-dens and fashionable nightclubs. It’s not the place to stay if you value a calm atmosphere, but it is very convenient for shopping, theatres and nightlife. By contrast, Bloomsbury, to the east, is one of the quieter areas of central London. Famous for its literary connections, the neighbourhood is home to the British Museum.

Holborn and Covent Garden – This area, bordered by King’s Cross, the Thames and Farringdon Road, lies between Theatreland and the City of London (the business centre), and includes the popular markets and shops of Covent Garden.

> Mayfair hotels
> Soho and Bloomsbury hotels
> Holborn and Covent Garden hotels

South Kensington and Chelsea

South Kensington – This is a good, quieter area to stay in, with plenty of hotels for those who prefer a more restrained atmosphere or want to spend a lot of time in the museums nearby. Included in this area are the King’s Road, Chelsea, the Royal Albert Hall, the V&A and the Natural History Museum.

> South Kensington hotels

Victoria Station and Pimlico

Between Westminster and Chelsea, the Victoria Station and Pimlico area is not particularly attractive or appealing, but it’s a fairly practical location, especially for the budget traveller. There are some cheap hotel and B&B accommodation options, and it’s only a short distance from more interesting places, such as Buckingham Palace and Westminster. Coaches from Victoria Coach Station serve destinations all over the UK (including airports), and trains from the railway station run to Gatwick, Brighton and other southern destinations.

> Victoria Station and Pimlico hotels

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London

London History

London History

 

For most of its history, London was the most important city in Britain (and, many Londoners would maintain, in the world). With a fortunate location in terms of trade and climate, it thrived as a Roman settlement (despite being burned by Boadicea), and grew into a substantial town, with temples, luxury villas and a forum within defensive walls.

When the Romans pulled their troops out of Britain, much of their city fell into decay. Less is known about London in the Dark Ages, but it seems that the principal inhabitated area moved westwards, towards what is now the Strand.

London’s strategic importance was never totally neglected, however, and kings from Alfred the Great onwards began focussing their attention on the city, and rebuilding some of its defences. By the time of the Norman Conquest, the city was the undisputed seat of power, and it was here by the Thames that William the Conqueror built the fortified Tower of London

Gradually, from its days of semi-abandonment, London emerged to become the legendary bustling city of the Middle Ages, noisy, smelly and above all exciting. From the chaotic City parishes emerged early theatres, printing presses, radical politics, philosophy and literature.

By the time London was rebuilt following the Great Fire of 1666, its growth was unstoppable. In the City itself, new buildings were put up to replace those lost. Although there was much discussion about redesigning the street layout, land ownership caused so many problems that most streets were rebuilt following the medieval plan. Even today the narrow winding streets with evocative names bear witness to the early city.

As the noble and the rich moved to the area west of the City – the air was fresher and the Court was close by – acres of expensive residential development resulted in the great squares and elegant streets of West London. Many of these areas still belong to the aristocratic families who have leased out whole streets for centuries.

On the other side of the City, manufacturing and other trades – including fishing – thrived in the East End. And although the centre of London has always provided a unique melting pot where aristocrats could mix with orange-sellers, and poets with sailors, the divide between East and West can still be seen.

The East End is a traditionally working class area, notorious for crimes by Jack the Ripper and gangs like the Krays. Despite the recent trendiness of ‘mockney’ films feting this violent aspect, the area, while still poor, has recently gained in respectability as fashionable young professionals move in. The areas close to the city, around Brick Lane, Whitechapel, and most of all Shoreditch and Hoxton, have become immensely fashionable with an arty young set, with studio spaces fetching inordinately high prices.

Today legacies of all London’s past eras can be found, along with more recent influences. Consecutive waves of immigration have led to a richly diverse culture, while regeneration initiatives have cleaned up some of the most deprived areas. The high-rise futuristic Docklands area has changed London’s skyline. Like most cities, London still has its problems,but it remains an unmatchable destination, rich in history, architecture, culture and interest.

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London

London

About London

Greater London is home to 7 million people. A city of extremes, it contains some of the UK’s richest and poorest areas. A jumble of ancient and modern, grand and shabby, beautiful and beastly, London is a city that inspires strong reactions. Many love it, some hate it. It’s possible to do both at the same time.

london

For most of its history, London was the most important city in Britain (and, many Londoners would maintain, in the world). With a fortunate location in terms of trade and climate, it thrived as a Roman settlement (despite being burned by Boadicea), and after a spell of semi-abandonment emerged to become the legendary bustling city of the Middle Ages, noisy, smelly and above all exciting. From the narrow winding streets whose layout is still preserved in the City emerged early theatres, printing presses, radical politics, philosophy and literature. By the time London was rebuilt following the Great Fire of 1666, its growth was unstoppable. Acres of expensive residential development resulted in the great squares and elegant streets west of the City. Manufacturing and other trades – including fishing – thrived in the East End. London was always a unique melting pot where aristocrats could mix with orange-sellers, and poets with sailors.

Today legacies of all London’s past eras can be found in the modern city, along with more recent influences. Consecutive waves of immigration have led to a richly diverse culture, while regeneration initiatives have cleaned up some of the most deprived areas. The high-rise futuristic Docklands area has changed London’s skyline. Like most cities, London still has its problems, but it remains an unmatchable destination, rich in history, architecture, culture and interest.

When to go

London is an all-year-round city. The winter can be cold and grey, and the summer can be sweltering and smoggy, but unpredictability is the key feature of London weather, so don’t count on anything. Late spring or early summer (May-June) will give you the best chance of seeing London looking its most appealing in the mild sunshine, and you may avoid the worst tourist excesses.

Location

Located in the south-east of England, London has excellent links with the rest of the UK by rail, air and coach. It is also a major international transport hub, and has easy connections to Europe – including via Eurostar train direct to Paris – and the rest of the world.

How to get to London

London’s principal airports are Heathrow, Gatwick and Stansted. All offer easy rail or bus connections into the centre. From Heathrow the cheapest option is the regular underground service, but the Heathrow Express, which runs to Paddington Station, is very fast and comfortable. Gatwick also has an Express train service to Victoria Station. From Stansted there is a train known as the Stansted Express, but be prepared for a slow journey to Liverpool Street Station.

London must-see tourist attractions

London is a vast city, and is so rich in famous and evocative sights that a short-term visitor needs to be selective in their choice of activities.

Among the must-sees for most first-time visitors are the great historical sights such as the Houses of Parliament, parts of which are open to the public, world-famous clock Big Ben, and the imposing Westminster Abbey. Just over the Thames you can find the more modern charms of the London Eye, which offers spectacular views over the city.

The Tower of London is another of the city’s most popular tourist attractions. Next to Tower Bridge, here you can see the Crown Jewels and take a step closer to the more murky bits of London’s past.

Continuing the state and royal theme, parts of Buckingham Palace, London residence of the Queen, is open to the public (the Summer Opening of the State Rooms is from 31 July to 26 September 2004), while outside you can witness the changing of the guard. A short walk away, through pretty St James’s Park with its fairy-tale view from the central bridge, is Whitehall, the centre of government. You can’t walk past Number 10 Downing Street, home of the Prime Minister, but you can peer through the gates at the end of the street for a good view of the famous residence and its comings and goings.

The notable streets of London are tourist attractions in themselves, and few will leave without visiting shopping centre Oxford Street, theatre-lined Shaftesbury Avenue, dignified Piccadilly, flashy Piccadilly Circus, or the bookshop mecca of Charing Cross Road.

London is world-renowned for entertainment and culture, most visitors will wish to take in a play, musical or art gallery. Whatever your tastes, you’ll find London has a large amount to offer.

On our Tourist Attractions page we offer a run-down of some important London sights, while for those who want to get to know the city in a rush, we suggest a weekend itinerary.

London Nightlife

For a Friday or Saturday night out, head for Soho or Covent Garden, enjoy a restaurant meal (hunt out some English food, or try the international cuisine for which London is famous), and end the evening at a theatre, bar or nightclub, or simply enjoying the hugely intense buzz that is Soho at night. Packed with drunken young (and older) people on their week’s ‘big night out’, the area is chaotic, but fairly safe. Stay alert, don’t carry huge amounts of money, and never take one of the unlicensed ‘mini cabs’ that prowl the streets. Black cabs can be hard to come by, but waiting to hail one of these, or using one of the city’s decent nightbuses, is by far the best option.

Check Time Out magazine to decide your evening’s activity, as London has a wealth of excellent possibilities, but most are geared for specific tastes and you want to make sure you get the most from your night. There are too many diverse nightclubs to recommend one or two, but a glance at Time Out’s listings will help you avoid the expensive tourist traps.

Other good locations for a night on the tiles include Islington, Camden (alternative, live music and clubs) and Shoreditch (painfully hip restaurants and trendy bars and clubs).